When I first started sourcing fabrics for our small but dedicated textile business, I’ll admit I lumped all twill fabrics together. They all felt like that sturdy, diagonal-textured stuff you used for work pants or heavy coats, right? But six years into the game, after selling Cavalry Twill to everything from uniform manufacturers to indie jacket designers, I’ve learned that not all twills are created equal—especially when it comes to Cavalry Twill. If you’ve ever wondered why Cavalry Twill commands a little more attention (and a higher price tag) than, say, denim twill or herringbone twill, let’s break this down like I do when I walk a new client through our warehouse. Cavalry Twill
First, let’s start with the basics: what makes a twill a twill? Any twill fabric gets its signature diagonal ridge (called a “wale”) from the way warp and weft yarns cross each other—usually skipping over one or two warp threads before interlacing under the next. That structure is why twills are generally more durable and drape better than plain-woven fabrics like broadcloth. But the variables here are endless: yarn count, fiber type, weave tightness, and overall construction, and that’s where Cavalry Twill pulls ahead of the pack.
Let’s compare it to the twill most people know best: denim. Denim is a 3/1 twill, meaning the weft yarn passes over three warp threads before under one. That gives it a subtle diagonal, but denim’s construction is all about heavy, cotton weft yarns that dominate the surface. It’s great for jeans, but it’s bulky, stiff straight out of the bolt, and prone to fading unevenly because of that one-sided yarn structure. Now Cavalry Twill is a 2/2 twill—yes, two over, two under—equal parts warp and weft interlacing. That’s a small difference on paper, but it makes all the difference in feel and performance. I’ve had customers swap out denim jacket linings for Cavalry Twill and say their coats went from feeling like a cardboard box to something that moves with their shoulders.
Next, fiber composition. A lot of twill fabrics for workwear are 100% cotton, but not all cotton is the same. When I source yarn for Cavalry Twill, I only use long-staple cotton (that’s the extra-long fibers from plants grown in regions like the American South or Egypt) instead of shorter staple cotton that’s more common in discount twills. Long-staple cotton is stronger, more resistant to pilling, and softer to the touch because the long fibers don’t stick out as much when woven. Other twills might mix in polyester for cheap durability, but that can make the fabric feel plasticky and trap heat. Our Cavalry Twill is 100% long-staple cotton, which is why it’s become a go-to for uniform companies that need something that lasts through 50 washes but doesn’t feel like a tarp after 10 uses. I once worked with a fire department that switched from regular cotton twill uniforms to ours, and they reported zero thread breaks over a 12-month period—something they never saw with their old supplier.
Weave tightness is another big one. Twills vary in how tightly the yarns are packed, and that affects everything from water resistance to breathability. Denim is woven relatively loosely, which is why it fades so easily and can absorb water quickly. Herringbone twill (another common twill for things like trousers) is also loosely woven, since its zigzag structure requires more space between yarns to keep the pattern sharp. Cavalry Twill, though, is woven extra tight—think 120 by 80 thread count, which is higher than most standard twills’ 90 by 60. That tight weave makes it more water-resistant than other cotton twills without being waterproof. I’ve had a outdoor gear brand use our Cavalry Twill for lightweight rain sashes, because it repels light mist and dries in half the time of their old herringbone twill sashes. It’s also more resistant to fraying along the edges, which is why it’s perfect for custom work where fabric will be cut and sewn multiple times—no need for extra heavy binding because the weave holds up on its own.
Wait, let’s not forget weight. Twill fabrics are measured in ounces per square yard, and that’s another key differentiator. Denim ranges from 8 ounces (light jeans) up to 16 ounces (heavy work jeans), herringbone twill is usually around 10 ounces, and Cavalry Twill sits right in the middle at 12 ounces. That’s not too light that it feels flimsy, and not too heavy that it’s uncomfortable in warm weather. I can’t tell you how many times a designer has come to me complaining that their twill jacket is too hot in the spring, or too stiff in the fall—Cavalry Twill balances that perfectly. It’s substantial enough to hold a structured blazer shape, but soft enough to be used for dress shirts or lightweight pants. A couple of months back, I had a small-batch clothing line that made trousers for both office wear and hiking switch to our Cavalry Twill, and their sales jumped 20% because customers loved that the pants didn’t wrinkle as much as polyester blends or feel heavy on long walks.
Another point: shrinkage. Most twill fabrics, especially those with loose weaves, shrink when you wash them, which is a nightmare for sewers who are trying to get a consistent fit. Because Cavalry Twill is woven with long-staple cotton and a tight, uniform weave, we pre-shrink every bolt before it leaves our warehouse. That means it shrinks less than 2% after washing, compared to 5% or more for standard twills. I always tell new clients to test this: take a swatch of Cavalry Twill, weigh it, wash it on hot, dry it on high, and weigh it again. It’ll barely change. I’ve had manufacturers of custom uniforms use our fabric exclusively because they don’t have to account for shrinkage when cutting sizes, which cuts down on waste and makes their product more reliable for customers.
Now, let’s address the elephant in the room: price. I’m not going to lie—Cavalry Twill is a bit more expensive than basic denim or herringbone twill. But here’s the thing: it lasts longer. Because of the long-staple cotton and tight weave, it doesn’t pill, fade, or fray as fast. A pair of work pants made from Cavalry Twill will last twice as long as one made from standard twill, so over time, it’s actually a better value. I had a construction worker come to me last year who’d been buying $20 work pants from a big-box store that wore out in two months, and he bought a pair made from our Cavalry Twill that’s still going strong a year later. He told me it was the best investment he’d made in workwear in years.
I know a lot of people will compare it to gabardine, too, since that’s another twill-like fabric. Gabardine is also a tight weave, but it’s usually made with shorter-staple cotton or even wool, and it’s often more expensive. Cavalry Twill is a more versatile, approachable option. It works for everything from rugged workwear to tailored clothing, while gabardine is mostly used for suit linings or heavy outerwear. That versatility is why so many small businesses keep coming back to us for their twill needs.
At the end of the day, what sets Cavalry Twill apart isn’t just the technical specs—it’s how it performs in real life. I’ve seen it used for everything from firefighter uniforms to dog coats to high-end blazers, and it never lets the customer down. It’s durable enough for hard work, soft enough for everyday wear, and versatile enough to fit a hundred different projects.
If you’re a designer, a uniform company, or a small business looking for a twill fabric that doesn’t skimp on quality, I’d encourage you to give Cavalry Twill a closer look. Don’t just take my word for it—order a swatch, test it, and see for yourself how it stacks up against other twills. We work with clients of all sizes, from one-person indie designers to large national uniform companies, and we’re happy to tailor orders to your exact needs.
If you’re ready to talk about pricing, minimum orders, or custom cuts, feel free to reach out. We’re here to help you find the right fabric for your next project, no matter how big or small.
Cotton Like Fabric References
- Textile Institute. (2019). Woven Twill Fabrics: Construction and Performance Characteristics. The Textile Institute.
- Cotton Council International. (2021). Long-Staple Cotton: Properties and Industrial Applications. Cotton Council International.
- American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. (2020). Standard Test Methods for Shrinkage of Woven Fabrics. AATCC.
- Woodings, J. (2018). Outdoor Performance Fabrics: A Guide to Selection and Application. Textile Trade Press.
Shaoxing Huichao Textile Co., Ltd.
As one of the most professional cavalry twill manufacturers and suppliers in China, we offer a wide range of products with superior quality. Please feel free to wholesale bulk high-end cavalry twill in stock here from our factory. Good service and reasonable price are available.
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E-mail: darrenzhong@huichaotextile.com
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